The latest advancement in natural skincare products is bakuchiol—a serum derived from plants, often called the “natural retinol alternative.” It hit the stores in 2019 and caused a sensation. It’s easy to glance at the natural skincare lines and find a multitude of products boasting about this new ingredient. So, is bakuchiol the next great hope in skin care? Read on to find out.
First of all, bakuchiol is not exactly new. It was first detected in 1966, although not used in cosmetics until relatively recently. It is derived from the seeds and leaves of the babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia), an herb used in ancient Chinese and Indian medicine. An extract of the babchi plant, applied and then exposed to sunlight, was often used to treat a specific type of dermatitis.
While bakuchiol acts similarly to retinol, it is not from the retinoid family. Retinol products (also known as retinoids) are a form of Vitamin A, derived from animal products. Bakuchiol is derived from plants, which means it can be used in vegan and cruelty-free skin care product.
Studies on the Plant Serum
Two main studies serve as the majority of research on the plant-based serum, one in 2014 and one in 2018. The 2014 study established that bakuchiol was clinically proven to have anti-aging effects on skin. According to Self Magazine, The researchers “…saw improvements in every category (compared to their baseline, not a placebo treatment): fine lines and wrinkles, roughness, dryness, and elasticity, among others. And they didn’t see the usual side effects of starting retinol, like irritation and dry, flaking skin.” In the 2018 study, dermatologists were asked to compare the skin of 44 subjects. Half of the subjects were using .5% retinol once a day, and half of the subjects were using .5% bakuchiol twice a day. (The researchers estimated that the Bakuchiol subjects would need 2 doses of the serum in order to mimic the results with only one dose of retinol). The dermatologists could not tell the difference in subjects’ skin. The only difference reported by the subjects was that the bakuchiol group had less flaking of skin.
According to Olga Bunimovich, M.D., a dermatologist and assistant professor at UPMC in Pittsburgh, “…we only know how bakuchiol stacks up to retinol, not any other retinoids. “They’re not comparing it to tretinoin,” for example. Retinoid products including tretinoin, isotretinoin, tazorac, or adapalene, are prescription-grade so they work faster than over the counter retinol products. Remember that bakuchiol is comparable to over the counter retinol products, not all retinoid products. And lastly, remember that some people are allergic to certain plant-based products, so use caution when trying bakuchiol for the first time.
Healthy Skin
The first step in healthy skin is always hydration. Be sure to keep yourself hydrated. Next, if you are in the market for an over-the-counter retinol product, bakuchiol is worth trying. It could be a good, naturally-derived product to improve the appearance of your skin. As you are selecting your product, be sure to check the Environmental Working Group webpage to be sure the other ingredients in your skin care product are healthy choices.
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